MINGALABAR, MYANMAR!

Myanmar can be an assault to the senses: dusty, unpaved roads, red-stained grounds from chewed betel nuts, walkways wrought with potholes, blazing shop signs in psychedelic colors of squiggly writing, a barrage of "kissy" noises in eateries to catch the server's attention, cranked-up Burmese music in packed local buses, the occasional cattle blocking your way... Its tourist infrastructure is still on the upswing (though temple guides are fluent in a plethora of languages: French, Italian, Mandarin - you name it), but the people are warm & respectful traditions are upheld in their daily lives with temple visits, thanaka-plastered faces, early-morning monk parades and longyi-wearing by men & women alike.

Temple running in Myanmar

Rural scenery: local everyday life by the Irrawaddy River

BAGAN: LAND OF 10,000 TEMPLES

I visited for 5 days in February 2014, a month after Myanmar declared that Philippine-passport holders could now enter the country, visa-free. Such great timing! *Pat on the back.* I took the SilkAir flight in the afternoon and landed in Yangon without any incident, flight or immigration-related. I didn't stay in Yangon that day, but hightailed it from the airport to the local bus station for my 8PM overnight bus ride to Bagan c/o JJ Express. I tell you that JJ Express service is the bomb: their reps met me with smiles at the airport exit to hand-deliver the tickets since I didn't have time to get it from their downtown office. This level of service at no extra cost!

The VIP JJ Express bus was actually very nice - comfortable, reclining seats and an attendant who provided us with blankets, water, and light snacks. The seats had more legroom than an economy plane seat! We stopped for bathroom breaks twice and had a late dinner at a local cafeteria. Our driver drove like there's no tomorrow and even though the ETA stated 5AM, we rolled into the Bagan bus terminal by 3AM. Save for the occasional onslaught of eardrum-busting local music and road bumps, it wasn't such a bad experience. I felt safer sitting on the bus than I would have flying in their infamous local airlines with no Skytraxx ratings yet at the time of my visit; their safety records were sketchy at best.

The intrepid traveler can take the local bus instead

Some local drivers tried to overcharge me for the very short trip from the bus terminal to my hotel, but thankfully, I had done my research. A nice tuktuk driver agreed to a price of US$1 for a 5-minute trip in the dark. It was kind of unnerving to arrive in the middle of nowhere in pitch-black surroundings, with only the light from local taxis illuminating the bus station and the strangers approaching me. Arriving during dusk or nighttime is a big no-no for me especially when traveling alone. Thank goodness all I had to fend off were overzealous drivers, plus I found the Burmese to be naturally hospitable.​

Bagan seems to be swathed in orange dust and light at all times

Bagan was my main destination and honestly, more to my liking than Yangon. Its 2,000-strong ancient temples (some say there were up to 10,000 temples at its historical height) & intricate murals are mind-boggling. For some reason, it was always swathed in a nice, orange glow. I took this sunset photo while talking to a fellow SFT who coincidentally also worked in advertising in Canada, but paused her career to take a much-needed gap year. The universe is telling me something. ;-)

Magical Bagan: even herds of cattle kicking up a dust storm produced an ethereal

effect against the pink and orange skies

Temple visits meant being barefoot most of the time (not for the finicky: temple floors are sometimes covered with bat & bird droppings), climbing up steep stone steps and weaving thru small & dark passageways. Didn't mind though as everything was awe-inspiring to me. The Bagan life is simple and time slows down to a crawl. My favorite temples were: Sulamani (the prettiest!), Pyat Hada Paya (massive roof terrace great for sunset viewing), Lawkaoushaung (lesser-known sunrise temple). Be prepared to climb almost 90-degree ancient stairs in the dark, especially when you watch the sunrise at the Lawkaoushaung Temple, which is so much better than the often-crowded Buledi Pagoda.

Didn't mind waking up at 4AM to climb Lawkaoushaung Temple for the most amazing sunrise views!

My Bagan guide, Myu, was the best! I originally tried go around on my own for two days via an electric bike, but the dust was too much for this asthmatic. And I fell flat on my face after riding for 100 meters. Ha! :) Myu came to my rescue; he was hanging around my hotel and gave me the best car tour of the temples and other sights - avoiding times when the tour buses swarmed the popular temples, and giving me insights into local life. I didn't get to ride the hot air balloons as tickets were sold out by the time I decided to book for Myanmar. But it was all good: the views of the balloons rising majestically against the dawn sky more than made up for the miss.

What's the prettiest temple of them all? Why, Sulamani, of course!

One of the most common sights, apart from the temples, are local women and children sporting white paste smeared generously on their faces. This is a paste called thanaka and it has been around for 2,000 years, protecting the Burmese people's skin from the sun. It's also purported to be a whitening agent and can even cure acne, measles, and skin sores.

Thanaka-smearing can be an art: some mothers craft designs on their kid's face. And for US$1, you can take a photo of them! "Entrepreneurial" skills arising from a burgeoning tourism industry. ;-)

IRRAWADDY RIVER: A PEEK INTO LOCAL LIFE

A visit to the Irrawaddy River provided a welcome break from temple-hopping. This calm river rages into a mighty one during the rainy season, covering the floodplains that we docked on and forcing the riverfolk to run for higher ground when it rises every year. The area around the jetty is a good vantage point to observe locals in their element while eating Lahpet Thoke (tea leaf salad).

After three days in Bagan, I took the night bus back to Yangon - again arriving two hours earlier than the ETA at 4 in the morning. At least the city had street lamps. I met two Filipinas from Singapore, too, on this bus and they nicely told me I could hang out with them at their friend's place until my guesthouse opened. I wanted to try my luck at my guesthouse since I badly need sleep and a good bath, so I took down their numbers and hailed a separate cab. It seemed as though the owners / caretakers actually lived in the guesthouse, so they opened up the place for me and allowed me to sleep on the reception couch till my room became available.

Private cruisin' on the Irrawaddy! I was the only traveler around!​

Benefits of befriending a local: taking a peek into their everyday lives

Sidewalk eateries like this one is the best way to interact with the Burmese

YANGON: FLASHBACK TO MANILA IN THE 80's

Yangon has clean, massive highways, imposing colonial buildings, well-manicured parks and side streets with towering and dilapidated buildings housing private residences, affordable guesthouses and tiny commercial shops (think 80s Quiapo or HK's Chungking mansions). There's a cacophony of sounds during the day and a hushed - almost eerie silence - on the side streets at night: unlike most bustling Asian cities, it hasn't caved in yet to the 24/7 lifestyle.

The Kayan ethnic minority of Myanmar who wear brass neck coils as a symbol of beauty.

Modernity meets tradition in every corner of Yangon.

I spent only one and a half days in this city and paid homage to key sights such as Sule Pagoda, Mahabandoola Garden, Yangon City Hall, Bogyoke market, Central Railway Station, Kawdangi Park, Burma High Court building (my favorite!) and of course, the mother of all pagodas, Shwedagon.

All that glitters is (probably) gold at the Shwedagon!

The streets can be chaotic and are not exactly pedestrian-friendly, but is a veritable feast for the senses. I love trying out street food in new destinations and my favorite was a savoury pancake for breakfast that a local lady sold a few steps away from my guest house. I also loved the food at Pandonmar Restaurant: that massaman curry will forever be tattooed on my tastebuds as the best ever.

Street eats: my favorite local pancake breakfast

Dinner at the iconic Governor's Residence is also a must, if only for the privilege of dining in a famous Victorian teak mansion that is now part of the Orient Express group.

Explosion of flavors in mah belly! :)

I arrived without any expectations in Myanmar and promptly fell in love with it. There are still so many places in this country that I would like to visit soon, like Ngapali and the Mergui Archipelago, before the tourist hordes and massive commercialism take over.

I highly recommend this destination to anyone wanting a peek into one of the world's most fascinating cultures, walking the streets of the home country of Nobel Peace Prize winner, Aung San Suu Kyi, and those desiring to go beyond the usual Asian backpacking circuit of Thailand, Indonesia, and Laos. It's still a relatively off-the-beaten-path destination ... but not for long! The magic of Myanmar is starting to gain global attention and a lot of travelers I know are recalibrating their compasses to include this in their RTW trips.

HOW TO GET THERE: Singapore Airlines, Silk Air, and Tiger Air fly daily from Singapore.

WHERE I STAYED: Zfreeti Hotel (Bagan). Cherry GuestHouse (Yangon).

Responsible travel tip: In Yangon, opt for guesthouses instead of the big-name hotels. Some of them are still owned, controlled, or have investors who are members of the Burmese military junta, which has a history of human rights violations. Never buy Burmese rubies - think blood diamonds. Their trade is again linked to the junta. Some locals will approach you to buy a stone or two (the rubies are spectacular, by the way. "Pigeon's-blood" is how they call its stunningly red color).

HAPPY TRAVELS! x

#Myanmar