GEGER: BALI'S NOT-SO SECRET BEACH

When I first started visiting Bali, I never once considered it to be a place for white-sand beaches. It's reputation as a surfing destination precedes itself and most people go there to ride its wild waves. Only two years ago did I start reading about some of Bali's swimming beaches: among those listed were Padang-Padang, Balangan, and Pandawa.

Among the three, I've only visited Padang-Padang and Pandawa. The former, I would say, is still very much a surfer's paradise, with its sea punctuated by wild waves and after a return there in 2014, realized that it was now sadly overrun by touts and vendors. The latter's beachfront is littered with rocks and could still be a little too wild for the average swimmer. Perennial favorite, Nusa Dua, is good - but the water isn't as clear as one might expect.

Finally, I found Geger. It's easy to bypass this beach as it's hidden in plain sight! A couple of times, I was confused as to where it was exactly, going round and round Nusa Dua. Only when I stayed at the Ayodya Resort did I realize that Geger is actually a continuation of Pantai Mengiat, which is bordered by hotels such as Grand Hyatt, Mercure, and Novotel. The actual Geger beach starts at the bend, after Ayodya and the local surf rescue hut.

Geger is known for its soft, white sand beach and seaweed farms. I think the best spot along this stretch of beach is the one in front of the local ladies' massage huts, a little before St Regis Resort. It's normally quiet with fishing boats parked in the shallow waters, and the waves are more manageable than the currents in front of Ayodya.

Wild waters in front of Ayodya are seen on the photo above - there are warning flags to indicate which areas are swimmable. I tried swimming here and was constantly buffeted by big waves. There's also a strong undercurrent that can pull a non-swimmer like me into deeper waters!

... Compared to Geger's calmer waters. Even though they face the same ocean, the reefs in front of Geger break the bigger waves. I noticed that the best time to swim here was between 11AM-2PM and if it gets too hot, just pop over to the massage ladies' huts and get a cheap Balinese massage for only IDR 150,000! I stayed one time until 5PM just lazing out and reading a book, and noticed that the tides can make even the area close to shore a bit deeper than usual. Quite normal, but at least it didn't have the undercurrents of Pantai Mengiat.

​Every day during my stay there, I would take my little walk down to this spot. Everytime, it felt like I was the only person on this part of the beach.

There are for-hire beach loungers and umbrellas beside the Mulia Resort, but I found the sand there to be coarser and deeper than the one in front of St Regis. Plus, a lot of water sports start from there and there a rows upon rows of loungers, so it can be quite busy. I liked my quiet spot better, marked by my Lagu beach blanket. :)

Plus the water clarity was stunning! So unlike what I've come to expect in the usual Bali beaches (I'm looking at you, Kuta and Seminyak!). During seaweed harvest season though, which is around Oct-Nov season when I visited Geger again, the sands had trails of green marine plants and the area was busier with farmers sifting through all that seaweed. But it still doesn't negate the beauty of Geger.

Next time you're in Bali, definitely check Geger out for that tropical island feel without the massive tourist crowds. :)

HAPPY TRAVELS! x

WHERE TO STAY: Ayodya Resort, formerly the Hilton, has a large beachfront property on Pantai Mengiat. It has several pools to choose from, towel and beach chair service, and is only a 2-minute stroll to Geger Beach.

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